In general, a well-cared-for sugar glider is likely to live a long, healthy life. But just like any other animal, sugar gliders have health concerns that are particular to their species. Many of their ailments are the result of improper nutrition, so it is very important that you read and understand the entries on Feeding Sugar Gliders. Hygiene also plays a role in illness, so be sure to review the section on cleaning your sugar glider’s cage. Before discussing specific illnesses, syndromes or problems, let’s talk in general terms about sugar glider illness.

First of all, you need to determine if your glider is sick. Bear in mind that sugar gliders will often mask their symptoms until they are very sick. So if you see signs that your glider is ill, assume he has been ill for a while. You should seek immediate veterinary attention once you see signs of illness:

Acting strangely or sudden behavior changes
Anorexia (not eating)
Being active during the day
Diarrhea
Dehydration
Hypersensitivity to light
Coughing and/or sneezing
Red, scaly skin
Difficulty breathing
Abscesses and/or any swelling
Excessive water drinking
Not drinking water
Lethargy or listlessness
Hair loss (Alopecia)
Nasal or eye discharge
Any kind of wound
A lumpy-looking jaw or head
Dull coat
Seizure
Sleeping too much
Not sleeping at all
Unpleasant smell
Self-Mutilation
Frantically circling its cage
Other obsessive or repetitive behaviors
Vomiting
Having difficulty walking or moving around
Not using rear legs
Weight gain or loss

If a sugar glider exhibits any of the above behaviors and you have multiple sugar gliders, it is important to quarantine the affected glider until you can get it veterinary attention. You should quarantine a sick glider in a large cage, separate from your other gliders. But in an emergency you can quarantine a sick glider in an empty aquarium filled with soft bedding.

(To be continued…)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

Outside hazards: Some sugar glider owners take their sugar gliders outside with them. If the glider is simply riding on your shoulder or in your pocket, there is a chance he could escape and never be found again. Sugar gliders generally do not take kindly to harnesses (they do not like the feeling of being bodily restrained), although some owners report success with them. A leash and collar is not a good idea, because the sugar glider can slip out of a collar. There are all sorts of hazards outside: poisonous plants, wandering dogs and cats, cars, etc. It seems best to either leave your sugar glider inside, or carry it in a safe enclosure from which it cannot escape.

Although I have brought many potential hazards to your attention, the discussion of sugar glider safety in these posts is not exhaustive nor all-inclusive. Rather, it is meant to get you thinking about how you can keep your glider safe in your home. Most tragic sugar glider accidents can be prevented if you only let your glider out into safe areas and you or some other trustworthy person always strictly supervise the glider’s “playtime.”

A note about human safety around sugar gliders: While this section has mainly been concerned with sugar glider safety, there are a few precautions humans should take. The first precaution is to properly wash and disinfect and observe any bite wound or scratch a sugar glider inflicts on you. Any sign of infection (redness, swelling, etc.) should prompt you to seek medical attention.

The second precaution regards general hygiene around sugar gliders. Because sugar gliders have the potential to pass on parasitic illness such as giardiasis, you should take certain basic precautions. (There has been some speculation about the possibility of sugar gliders transferring salmonella, toxoplasmosis and/or trichomoniasis to humans, but there seems to be little evidence thus far. However, both salmonella and trichomoniasis are both very common organisms, found in many animals. Always err on the side of caution and assume that sugar gliders are capable of transmitting various bacteria, parasites and/or fungi.)

Always wash your hands with soap and water both before and after handling your sugar glider, its food bowls, its waste matter or its cage. Do not wash your glider’s food and water bowls in the same place where you prepare food. Do not permit children to put their fingers in a sugar glider’s mouth.

Use simple common sense. Any time you may have been even remotely exposed to an object or creature that could harbor bacteria, parasites or fungi, wash with soap and water. This is not to make you unduly concerned. Sugar gliders are not known for making humans sick. But these simple precautions will make that possibility even tinier.

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

Houseplant hazards: There are many, many houseplants that are dangerous to sugar gliders. And sugar gliders just love to play in houseplants. Aside from the fact that your glider may tear up your plants, some plants are quite toxic to sugar gliders.

There is no definitive list of plants that are known to be toxic to sugar gliders. Existing lists for birds, rabbits and sometimes livestock are often seen, but something that is toxic to a rabbit might not be toxic to a sugar glider, and vice-versa.

A general rule is this: If in doubt about a plant, don’t permit your sugar glider to play or live in or around it. Research it, ask other breeders and owners and then decide if it is worth the risk to your sugar glider. Here is a list of plants to avoid. This list is not exhaustive!

Plants to avoid:

Achillea
Agapanthus
Agapanthus, Pink
Allium Canadense
Aloe Vera
Alyssum
Amaryllis
Amaranth
American yew
Apricot Tree
Arrowhead Vine
Azalea
Balsam pear
Baneberry
Bird of Paradise
Black Cohosh
Black Eyed Susan
Black Locust
Bleeding heart
Blue Green algae
Boxwood
Buckthorn
Buttercup
Cactus
Calla Lily
Caladium
California Poppy
Caladium
Camphor Tree
Candytuft, evergreen
Cardinal Flower
Carnation
Carolina Jasmine
Castor Beans
Cedar
Chalice vine
Chameleon Flower
Cherry Tree
China Berry
Chinese Evergreen
Chinese Tallow Tree
Christmas Candle
Christmas Rose
Christmas Cactus
Chrysanthemum
Clematis
Coffee Tree Plant
Columbine
Coral plant
Cowslip
Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila)
Crocus
Crown of Thorns
Crown Vetch
Cyclamen
Daffodil
Daphne
Datura
Day Lily
Deadly Amanita
Death Camas
Delphinium
Devil’s Ivy
Dieffenbachia
Dogwood
Dracaena
Dumbcane
Dusty Miller
Eggplant
Elderberry
Elephant Ear
Elm Tree
English Ivy
English Yew
False Heather
False Henbane
Flax
Foxglove
Geranium
Ginkgo biloba
Gladiola
Golden Chain
Gopher Plant
Gopher Purge
Grape Ivy
Heather
Heavenly Bamboo
Heliotrope
Hemlock
Henbane
Holly
Horse Chestnut
Hosta
Hyacinth
Hydrangea
Iceland Poppy
Indian Laurel
Indian Turnip
Iris
Ivy
Jack-in-the-Pulpit
Japanese Yew
Java Bean (lima bean)
Jerusalem Cherry
Jimson Weed
Johnny-jump-up
Juniper
Lady Slipper
Lantana
Larkspur
Laurel
Licorice Plant
Lily (avoid all species)
Lily of the Valley
Lobelia
Locoweed
Lords and Ladies
Lupine
Marigold
Marijuana
Mayapple
Mescal Bean
Mistletoe
Mock Orange
Monkshood
Morning Glory
Mountain Laurel
Narcissus
Nightshade (avoid all species)
Oleander
Oriental poppy
Ornamental Pear
Ornamental Pepper
Ornamental Plum Tree
Pansy
Paperwhites
Peace Lily
Peony
Periwinkle
Philodendron
Pine Tree (avoid all species)
Poinsettia
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pokeweed
Pomegranate
Potato Plant
Pregnant Onion
Primrose
Privet
Pussywillow
Ranunculus
Redwood Tree
Rex begonia
Rhododendron
Rhubarb
Rosery Pea
Rose
Rubber Tree
Sedum
Skunk Cabbage
Snowberry
Snow-on-the-Mountain
Snowdrop
Spruce Tree
St. John’s Wort
Sweet Pea
Sweet Violets
Sweet William
Tobacco
Tomato
Trumpet vine
Tulip
Umbrella Plant
Umbrella Tree
Verbena
Vinca Major
Vinca Minor
Viola
Virginia Creeper
Western Blue Flag
Western Yew
Windflower
Wisteria
Yam Bean
Yarrow
Yew

Again, this list is not exhaustive! Use caution and common sense regarding plants and sugar gliders. FYI: Any plant with the suffix or prefix “bane” in it is likely to be poisonous.

(To be continued)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

Basement and garage hazards: Both your basement and your garage are a potential minefield for sugar gliders, and you should carefully glider-proof them before you allow your sugar glider to explore. Better yet, keep your glider out of these areas. There are so many hazards: a furnace or a water heater may have an open flame and their surface may be hot.

If your garage has an automatic door opener, be aware that someone could inadvertently open up the garage door as they arrive home.

The same rodent or insect poison precautions that hold for the kitchen also hold for the basement and garage, typical sites for exterminators to leave poisons.

Many people store hazardous materials in their basement and/or garage. A few examples are: gasoline, oil, paint, paint thinner and varnish. The list is endless.

Pet hazards: Your sweet, gentle Labrador may be a real calm, peaceful dog. And your long-haired cat may appear to be the laziest creature on Earth. But put a scampering sugar glider in their midst, and they could well turn into The Great Predator. Look at a sugar glider through your pet’s eyes. Sugar gliders are small, fast-moving and furry. Sounds a lot like the prey that dogs and cats love to chase, doesn’t it? So until you are absolutely, positively sure your dog or cat won’t harm your sugar glider, don’t let them interact.

Never leave your dog or cat alone with your glider! Even if you are certain your pet loves your sugar glider, don’t leave them alone. Dogs and cats can severely injure or kill a sugar glider.

When you first bring your sugar glider home, you may want to introduce him to your other pets from the safety of his carrier or his cage. Better yet, have both animals safely restrained and let them sniff each other. Watch your sugar glider for signs of extreme panic; a dog or cat could be terribly frightening to a glider. Keep initial interactions very brief.

Only once you feel that your dog or cat might get along with your sugar glider can you try to let one of them run free. For example, you might let your sugar glider stay in his cage while your cat runs free in the same room. If you see any sign of aggression at all, remove the dog or cat from the room. If it appears that your dog or cat will never get used to having a little sugar glider around, then keep them separated at all times. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.

Resist the temptation to put other small pets in the same cage as your sugar glider. Some people have been known to put flying squirrels in with their sugar gliders, which is a bad idea. A fight or worse is usually the result. Leave sugar gliders alone with their own species.

Young children hazards: Young children (under 12) should not be permitted unsupervised time with a sugar glider. If the glider becomes startled or frightened, it could bite the child. And if the child accidentally gets scratched, a near-riot could ensue if the child panics. Remember also that very young children always put their hands in their mouths. Do not permit your child to handle your sugar glider and then put his or hand in his or her mouth. If your young child wants to visit the sugar glider, make sure you always hold and/or restrain the glider in their presence.

(To be continued)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

Living room hazards: The hazards in the living room primarily have to do with furniture and closets. A sugar glider can hide under the cushions of your chair or sofa, so if you have an escapee or you’re not sure where your sugar glider is, look before you sit! You could easily suffocate or squish a sugar glider. Recliner chairs are also a potential danger, because they have moving parts that could crush your glider. Don’t lower or raise your recliner if there’s any chance your sugar glider could be hiding in it.

Make sure your sugar glider can’t get into any fans, heaters, dehumidifiers, or anything else with moving parts in your living room.

Sugar gliders can get caught in the loops of mini blind cords and become strangled. If you have mini blind cords, you can cut the loop at the bottom to greatly lessen the chance of your sugar glider becoming entangled in it.

Definitely don’t let your sugar glider run around when you have a fire in the fireplace or your woodstove. A serious burn injury could occur.

If you let your sugar glider run in your living room, be sure to keep small, breakable items out of his way. Your glider has no idea how much that vase cost, nor does he care, as it comes tumbling down. Not only will you lose a sentimental item, but the broken glass or china could injure your sugar glider.

Bedroom hazards: The biggest hazard in your bedroom is the bed. Those cozy blankets are an inviting snoozing spot for sugar gliders. But if you sit or lay down on the bed, you could easily crush your sugar glider! For this reason, it’s not a good idea to sleep with your glider. You might roll over in your sleep and crush him. Besides, who wants a sugar glider peeing and pooping all over their bed?

Do not leave dresser drawers open in your bedroom. Your glider will be very tempted to hop in and explore or nap! You might accidentally close the drawer on him or his tail, or he might “go missing” while you frantically search the house for him.

Laundry room and utility room hazards: Sugar gliders just love laundry baskets. After all, they are filled with your wonderful scent! So if your sugar glider has escaped, or is just running around your house, make sure you check each item of clothing before you put it in the washing machine. And when your washing machine is not in use, make sure your sugar glider cannot get access to the drain. Once in your plumbing system, he would be difficult, if not impossible, to retrieve.

Never leave your dryer door open! A hot dryer could kill a sugar glider. Dryer vents can also be a problem, because they lead to the outside. A sugar glider could easily chew through a plastic dryer vent hose. If you are ironing, make sure your sugar glider has no access to the hot iron.

Laundry rooms are also filled with laundry detergent, softeners, bleach, etc. All of them could be fatal to a curious sugar glider. The rule is the same for toddlers: if you wouldn’t let a toddler get into or handle it, don’t let your sugar glider get into or handle it!

(To be continued…)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

Heating/cooling vents:  Make sure your heating/cooling vents are securely covered.  A curious, determined sugar glider could open a loosely-covered vent, and any sugar glider can quickly escape into an open vent.  Picture yourself trying to get your glider out of your ductwork!  Some people nail window screening or hardware cloth over their heating/cooling vents.

Open water:  Never leave a bucket full of water where your glider might accidentally fall into it and drown. Although sugar gliders are not known for a fondness for water, a glider might fall into an uncovered aquarium.  If it did, it would most likely drown. So keep your aquarium covered or in a place that is inaccessible to your sugar glider.

Hanging threads in the sleeping pouch: Be sure to trim all hanging or loose threads in your sugar glider’s sleeping pouch. A thread wrapped around a paw can cause a traumatic injury.

Bathroom hazards: The bathroom is really a bad place to take your glider.  But because it is small and enclosed, many people take their gliders into their bathroom. Water in a sink, bathtub or a toilet can be deadly to your sugar glider. If your glider falls in and you are not there to immediately take him out of the water, he will try to climb out. But because the sides of the sink, tub or toilet are slippery and smooth, he won’t be able to get a grip. Eventually, he will get tired and drown.  Don’t let this happen to your glider!  Keep the lid down on your toilet at all times, just in case your glider has accidentally gotten out of his cage and/or safe room.

Substances commonly found in the bathroom can be quite poisonous and/or deadly to a sugar glider. For example, perfume, hairspray, shampoo, shaving cream, prescription and over-the-counter medicines, nail polish remover, tub and toilet cleaners and many other substances are all poisonous.  Then there are sharp items, like razor blades and scissors.  The general rule for the bathroom is this: if you wouldn’t let a toddler get into or handle it, don’t let your sugar glider get into or handle it!

Kitchen hazards:  In general, the kitchen is a bad place to bring your sugar glider. From a human’s perspective, sugar glider pee or poop in the kitchen is very unsanitary. But I want to focus here on the hazards to the glider himself in the kitchen. A sugar glider can incur serious burns if he jumps on a hot stovetop or a hot toaster oven. Remember that food cooking on a stove may smell very enticing to your sugar glider. Your sugar glider can also get underneath your stove (and get burned or follow the gas line right into your basement or out of your house).

He can also get behind a refrigerator, which has a moving fan that could injure your glider. The exposed coils of a refrigerator are also dangerous to your precious little one. Of course, the electrical cords for the refrigerator, microwave, etc. are a danger. It also goes without saying that you should never leave your dishwasher open when your sugar glider is around.  How horrible it would be to open your dishwasher and discover your glider had gotten in there and died while your dishes got clean!

Be aware if you have had an exterminator place mouse bait or insect poison under your stove or refrigerator. If so, you cannot let your sugar glider run free. Mouse bait (usually warfarin) could easily kill a glider.  And insecticides can also make a sugar glider very sick.

While we are on the subject of mice and other vermin, remember to not use pest control devices that use radio waves or ultrasonic sound to drive pests from your house. They can literally drive your sugar gliders crazy!

Never leave floor-level kitchen cabinets open while your sugar glider runs around.  He could get into some poisonous cleaning compounds. If the cabinet is under your sink, he could squeeze through the hole(s) that the plumbing comes through and exit into your basement.

Remember to keep caffeinated drinks and alcoholic drinks in your kitchen inaccessible to sugar gliders.

(To be continued)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

Before you even bring your sugar glider home, you should begin thinking about how you are going to glider-proof your house or apartment. Gliders can get into trouble, sometimes with tragic consequences, if you don’t think about their safety in advance. Remember that they are small creatures, capable of squeezing themselves into tiny spaces. If left to run loose in your house, they can get into just about anything!

The golden rule is: Never permit your glider to run around unsupervised! It is always best to play with them in a room that is always glider-proof. But even if you do always supervise your sugar glider in a safe room, you should be prepared for the possibility that he might escape or that he might get into something harmful.

As you look around your home, think about how you would child-proof it. Think of a sugar glider as a tiny, furry, very agile toddler. And then add to that any potential danger that would arise from the sugar glider’s ability to get into heating vents, under closet doors, etc. Here are some precautions you should take before permitting your sugar glider to run around your home:

Electrical outlets and electrical cords: Sugar gliders have been known to chew on electrical cords, and they have been known to stick their tongues inside an electrical outlet. In both cases, they can electrocute themselves! Electrical outlets are easily made glider-proof by installing child safety plugs, available at any hardware or home-improvement store. Electrical cords are a bit trickier. Some owners put pepper sauce on their cords to dissuade their gliders from chewing, but that can be messy, insufficient and painful to your glider. Other people run their electrical cords through PVC pipe, or they staple them close to the wall, to lessen the temptation. There is no perfect solution to this problem. The bottom line is this: supervise your sugar glider closely, and keep the electrical cords in your glider area to the minimum possible.

Paper: Some sugar gliders are fond of chewing paper. While they do not chew to the same extent as a rodent does, be sure to keep any important papers out of your glider’s path. While paper chewing is more of a nuisance to the owner than a safety issue, if a sugar glider ate enough of the paper, his digestive system could dysfunction.

Windows and doors: A sugar glider can be out an open window or door in a nanosecond. Once he is outside, your chances of recapturing him are just about zero. Whenever your sugar glider is loose in the house, you must make sure no one opens a window or a door that could give the glider a chance to escape. Additionally, if there is a space between the bottom of an interior door and the carpeting or flooring, your sugar glider may be able to squeeze under the door and scamper around the house.

(To be continued…)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

What should you do about a sugar glider who is a picky eater and who refuses to eat the healthy food you serve him or her? First of all, you need to understand normal sugar glider behavior with regard to eating. You should expect to see some “leftovers” most nights. Sugar gliders typically eat part of what is offered, throw a part of what is offered around (hence the need for a “Critter Hut” or something similar to minimize your cleanup time) and ignore part of what is offered. This is normal sugar glider behavior. If you are expecting your sugar glider to lick his bowl clean like your dog does, forget it! That’s not how sugar gliders eat. Additionally, sugar gliders will sometimes eat very lightly for 2 or 3 days.

Another type of normal sugar glider eating behavior is to ignore something the first few times you put it in front of them. That doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t like it. Multiple offers of the food over a period of days may be necessary before a glider will try it.

When dealing with a picky eater, remember that if permitted, a sugar glider will pick out its favorite foods every night and ignore the rest. In that sense, they really are like children. It is up to you to provide variety so that your glider doesn’t eat the same thing every night.

If your sugar glider won’t eat its fruits or vegetables, try feeding a fruit or vegetable first, after you remove all other food from the cage. Feed the rest of his food an hour or two later. If this does not work, then feed only a fruit or veggie for one or two nights. A glider usually will not starve itself to death. After one or two nights, he will probably eat the item in question.

If your sugar glider won’t eat its protein, mix the food you want him to eat with something else you know he loves and can’t resist. You can try mixing protein with low-sugar apple juice, applesauce, yogurt, etc. Use only enough of the treat foods to get your sugar glider to eat the food you want it to eat. Don’t overdo the sugar especially. If you have a sugar glider who is refusing to eat his protein, you may have to try putting out only protein foods for a day or two, until your sugar glider is hungry enough to it it.

(To be continued…)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

There are certain foods that are “acceptable foods” for sugar gliders and certain foods that are considered “foods to avoid”. Within the “foods to avoid” category there may be certain foods that are OK in extremely limited quantities. The following list provides some general guidelines. I have noted foods that are debated by the sugar glider community.

Acceptable Foods
o apple
o avocado (some breeders put this on the “bad foods” list because of a toxin it)
o baby foods with no added salt or garlic or onion
o banana
o beef (well-cooked and cut up finely)
o blueberry
o cantaloupe
o carrot
o cherry (no pits)
o chicken (without skin)
o coconut
o cucumber
o eggs
o fig
o grape
o honey (sparingly)
o honeydew
o insects (only those raised as small animal food)
o kiwi
o mandarins
o mango
o mealworms (limit amount; they are high in fat)
o melon
o papaya
o peach
o pear
o pineapple
o pinky mice
o plum
o prune
o raisin
o raspberry
o squash
o strawberry
o sweet potato
o tofu (a debated food; see discussion above)
o wheat germ (Wheat germ is controversial because it has a great deal of phosphorus and a small amount of calcium. It does have good attributes, such as a high amount of protein, but if you feed it to your glider, it would be prudent to use only small amounts.)

Foods to Avoid

o Baby foods that contain onions or garlic
o canned foods (most contain added salt and sugar)
o cat food (see the discussion of the cat food debate)
o cheese
o chives
o chocolate
o coffee
o dog food
o fried foods
o garlic
o iceberg lettuce
o insects that are not raised as small animal food
o leeks
o milk (cow or goat’s milk)
o millet
o nuts (can only be given in very small quantities)
o onions
o peanuts (can cause aflatoxicosis)
o pits (from fruit)
o processed meat
o raw eggs
o raw meat
o rhubarb
o salt
o scallions
o soda
o sugar (granulated sugar or foods with added sugar)
o sunflower seeds (can only be given in very small quantities)
o tea

The above lists are not exhaustive! If you have a question about a particular food, ask your breeder, ask other sugar glider owners, etc. before you serve it to your glider! In addition, avoid making a habit of feeding your sugar glider table food. A glider’s nutritional needs are far different from yours.

(To be continued…)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.

Supplementation: It is a good idea to give your sugar glider a high-quality supplement, in addition to its food. Sugar gliders can sometimes inexplicably become finicky about their food, and a supplement is a good way to insure they are still getting proper nutrition. Sugar glider breeders and other experts usually supplement both with nectar-like products and vitamins and minerals.

When you are supplementing your sugar glider’s diet, remember, more is not necessarily better. Some vitamins, for example, can become toxic when given in large amounts. So follow the recommended amount on the label! Some commonly-used supplements are:

o The Pet Glider Complete Multivitamin, which contains a complete balanced mammal multivitamin and calcium, nectar, bee pollen, probiotics (“friendly” bacteria for your glider’s digestive system), acacia gum, and herbs.

o Glider Boost + Glider-Cal, which is made especially for sugar gliders.

o Vionate, which is a multivitamin in powdered form. Its calcium to phosphorus ratio is 2:1. This supplement can be sprinkled over your glider’s fruit.

o Rep-Cal Calcium, which was originally designed for reptiles. The Rep-Cal calcium that is both phosphorus and Vitamin D3 free is often preferred by sugar glider owners. It should be noted that there is currently some debate about whether supplementing with Vitamin D in sugar gliders who are healthy is a good idea. There have been reports of Vitamin D toxicity in some sugar gliders. Unlike diurnal creatures (such as humans), nocturnal animals absorb Vitamin D in their guts, not through exposure to sunlight. So it would be very easy to over-supplement with any form of Vitamin D. If you decide to give your sugar glider a supplement with added Vitamin D, avoid giving any other supplements that also contain added Vitamin D in any form.

o Gliderade, which is designed as a nectar substitute. Do not oversupplement with this of any other sweet supplement.

o Fruit-flavored powdered Gatorade can also be mixed to your glider’s taste. Gatorade has sucrose (a sugar) and electrolytes (important for keeping your sugar glider’s body chemistry in balance).

Staple foods: Certain foods are considered staples and you should leave them in your sugar glider’s food bowl all day. Those foods include:

o Sugar Glider dry pelleted diet, such as Premium Sugar Glider Diet or Glider Complete Diet by the Exotic Nutrition Pet Company. It is recommended that you soften any hard food you give your sugar glider, to avoid possibly causing Lumpy Jaw. Be aware that softened food will spoil more quickly, so you will need to put fresh food in your sugar glider’s bowl every day. A pellet food that is soft to begin with is Zookeeper’s Friend.

o Monkey Biscuits are also made by the Exotic Nutrition Pet Company. Many sugar gliders love to munch on them all day. Because they are also hard, it is a good idea to moisten them as well.

Regardless of which staple food you give your sugar glider, it is not recommended that you use them as the sole source of nutrition for your sugar glider! Your glider needs fresh food sources, as detailed above.

(To be continued…)

© 2006 SugarGliderAuthority.com. Excerpted from Sugar Gliders: The Ultimate Guide. All rights reserved. No portion of this website may be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the copyright owner.